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<title>*All Things Motorcycle* - Technical/Maintenance</title>
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<item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Carbs and Idle Speed</title><author>Scamper</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12162&amp;REPLY_ID=117075</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Mon, 30 Aug 2010 20:42:49 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12162</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 18 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 08/30/2010 at 8:42&nbsp;PM by Scamper<hr> Quick update.<br /><br />I put an entire can of Seafoam into an almost empty tank and then refilled with premium fuel. Rode it around and noticed a significant difference in the way the engine functioned. Much smoother.<br /><br />I have found someone who will help to take apart my carbs to clean them and teach me how to do it at the same time. Exactly what I want. I'll do the grunt work, I just need the expertise as to how to do it. :)<br /><br />]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Electrical or Carb issues</title><author>Alabusa</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12226&amp;REPLY_ID=117064</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Mon, 30 Aug 2010 16:28:57 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12226</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 1 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 08/30/2010 at 4:28&nbsp;PM by Alabusa<hr> Sounds electrical to me. Since you have replaced the kickstand switch, have you checked the kickstand itself?? I have seen quite a few  of this type of problem and as many as not were the kickstand was slightly loose and underway would vibrate down enough for the switch to kill the bike. Just something quick and easy to check if not already done so.<br /><br />Next I would start checking ground connections and battery connections.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - hesitation and back firing issue!</title><author>kacinpa</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12216&amp;REPLY_ID=117013</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Sun, 29 Aug 2010 07:07:20 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12216</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 6 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 08/29/2010 at 7:07&nbsp;AM by kacinpa<hr> Did you check the function of the choke?<br /><br />It sounds to me that the choke is stuck partially on and once it warms up the mixture is way too rich and thus the inability to rev freely and the plug fouling.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - A very unpleasant  surprise!</title><author>Guildman</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12190&amp;REPLY_ID=116931</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Wed, 25 Aug 2010 18:49:19 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12190</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 6 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 08/25/2010 at 6:49&nbsp;PM by Guildman<hr> If you need more guidance, check out this site: <a href="http://www.650ccnd.com/" target="_blank">http://www.650ccnd.com/</a><br /><br />They know the 650 really well and might be able to offer additional guidance.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - high pitched chirpy squeaky noise</title><author>rayg50</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12200&amp;REPLY_ID=116915</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Wed, 25 Aug 2010 13:00:20 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12200</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 7 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 08/25/2010 at 1:00&nbsp;PM by rayg50<hr> Delphi has a few Shadow forums. They are for the most part similar but somewhat different. The link below is an additional one to the one that skootchNC posted above. I can tell which of the Spirit forums I am in by the background color (white, red, black).<br /><br /><a href="http://forums.delphiforums.com/spirit750/" target="_blank">http://forums.delphiforums.com/spirit750/</a><br /><br />Note the tabs on this site. There is one labeled Webpage that has some interesting information.<br /><br />BTW, I have a VT750DCA and have never heard the sound you describe. The only sound I find unusual, in a good way, is that when I drop to first gear I get a whining sound. It is almost like something unwinding. When I hear that sound I know what gear I am in.<br /><br />]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Scala Q2 Charger Output Voltage</title><author>Night Train</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12178&amp;REPLY_ID=116670</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Fri, 20 Aug 2010 03:32:15 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12178</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 1 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 08/20/2010 at 3:32&nbsp;AM by Night Train<hr> 9 volt output]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Horns and relays</title><author>fzapper</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12169&amp;REPLY_ID=116663</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Thu, 19 Aug 2010 19:50:02 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12169</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 8 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 08/19/2010 at 7:50&nbsp;PM by fzapper<hr> I replaced the horn on my 2003 Shadow ACE with an aftermarket automotive horn because I didn't like the puny "peep" the original horn put out. Considered it a safety upgrade to sound like a car.<br /><br />I knew from the schematic in the shop manual that it didn't use a relay so I added one along with some heavier guage wire to the horn just to be safe. (ALL cars use relays.)<br /><br />Everything works great, but I had to replace the relay later because water got into it. Use one with spade lug connectors for easy replacement and buy one that's waterproof or seal it with RTV or silicone. Mine came from good old Radio Shack.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - 04 Vstar 1100 with Elec problem</title><author>scottrnelson</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12175&amp;REPLY_ID=116650</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Thu, 19 Aug 2010 15:41:52 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12175</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 3 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 08/19/2010 at 3:41&nbsp;PM by scottrnelson<hr> <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by deltapapa</i><br /><br />My Bad, I did not state that the Battery is new ( two months old) and the 11.5 volts came at the battery while the bike was running and while checking the charging system.<br /><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">That's totally different.<br /><br />At idle I get a fairly low number, but if I rev the engine above 3000 rpms or so I'll get a reading somewhere in the neighborhood of 3.8 volts.  If yours doesn't get above 12.0 then I would be looking at the components of the charging system.<br /><br />In any case, whenever you're having battery issues, it's always a good idea to top off the battery with a Battery Tender or other motorcycle battery charger.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Should I buy a dirtbike that has a bill of sale but no title?</title><author>deltapapa</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12121&amp;REPLY_ID=116630</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Thu, 19 Aug 2010 10:33:59 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12121</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 6 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 08/19/2010 at 10:33&nbsp;AM by deltapapa<hr> Here in Texas if you buy a dirt bike made ONLY for the dirt you had an option or not to get a title. It cost extra so I don't do it, I have purchased four dirt bikes to race with and never had a title. A bill of sale is enough unless you want to put lights on it for the street, at least in Texas]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Dagnabit....</title><author>SuperRookie</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12148&amp;REPLY_ID=116419</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Fri, 13 Aug 2010 10:48:33 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12148</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 2 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 08/13/2010 at 10:48&nbsp;AM by SuperRookie<hr> Thanks Scott. I could feel my pocket get lighter and lighter as I read that. Especially since I have no idea when the cam belts were changed last so I guess I'll have it done forthwith.<br /><br />Question...I'm no wrench...I'm not even a pair of pliers...but how can I tell if it's brake fluid or oil?<br /><br />Thanks<br /><br />Edit: I also just got two wildly different quotes on the cam belt change...one quoted me the cost of the belts and labor...the other gave me a blanket quote and it was twice as much.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Carb upgrade</title><author>SkootchNC</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12142&amp;REPLY_ID=116368</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Thu, 12 Aug 2010 06:32:57 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12142</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 1 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 08/12/2010 at 6:32&nbsp;AM by SkootchNC<hr> <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Enamelove</i><br /><br />How do the racers fit the bigger carbs than stocks into their engines? Is there any modification done to intake manifold and intake port? How do it affects the engine, as the cc is same? And what is mean by a negative pressure carburettor?<br /><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"><br /><br />Depending on the race sanctioning body. They each have a strict set of rules detailing what one is allowed to modify. <br />Generally, within those rules, one could (within  specific limits)upgrade their carburetor, or modify their existing carburetor. One may need a different intake manifold, for a new carb.<br />The carburetor effects the air/fuel volume intake of an engine, it does not effect the swept volume (CC) of that engine.<br /><br />I'm not sure this is the correct forum for this discussion.  <br /><br />regards<br />Frank]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - overheating</title><author>DDfromMN</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12039&amp;REPLY_ID=116304</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Mon, 09 Aug 2010 23:02:14 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12039</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 7 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 08/09/2010 at 11:02&nbsp;PM by DDfromMN<hr> <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by natehibbs</i><br /><br />No everything seems fine now. Got the bike up and running. Just waiting on a new sidestand. I guess I got lucky.<br /><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"><br />I'm so relieved[:u]]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Compression ratio change</title><author>greywolf</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12123&amp;REPLY_ID=116289</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Mon, 09 Aug 2010 13:53:43 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12123</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 4 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 08/09/2010 at 1:53&nbsp;PM by greywolf<hr> The carburetor or fuel injection system needs to be modified to supply more fuel. Alcohol only has about 2/3 the energy of gasoline/petrol. Supply alcohol in the proper proportion to air and the engine will run fine, at least at first. Alcohol attacks some gasket material and has no oil in it so will cause wear much faster. A converted engine will run fine at first but its life will be shortened.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Neutral Light oddity</title><author>greywolf</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12127&amp;REPLY_ID=116284</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Mon, 09 Aug 2010 12:28:31 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12127</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 1 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 08/09/2010 at 12:28&nbsp;PM by greywolf<hr> Water anywhere in the wire run of the neutral switch to the sensor making a ground connection could be the cause. The description of the event fits perfectly. It's interesting to see so many stories about washing a bike being followed by an anomaly even though they are fine for a ride in the rain. The cleaning chemicals make the water conductive enough to fool semiconductors but not enough to blow a fuse in most cases.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Who needs professional mechanics?</title><author>avirdier</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11962&amp;REPLY_ID=116178</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Thu, 05 Aug 2010 17:05:20 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11962</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 3 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 08/05/2010 at 5:05&nbsp;PM by avirdier<hr> Nice job, I think most things on a bike can be figured out, that's one of the things that originally made motorcycles appealing to me. Th other things require special tools, like patience.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Backfire</title><author>Alabusa</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12094&amp;REPLY_ID=115997</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Fri, 30 Jul 2010 20:49:23 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12094</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 1 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 07/30/2010 at 8:49&nbsp;PM by Alabusa<hr> Also might be worth your while to check here <a href="http://www.volusiariders.com/viewtopic.php?t=51362&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=pair" target="_blank">http://www.volusiariders.com/viewto...ghlight=pair</a> valve removal&start=0.<br /><br />Might give you a few more answers checking around that forum.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Backfire</title><author>greywolf</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12093&amp;REPLY_ID=115990</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Fri, 30 Jul 2010 16:44:35 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12093</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 1 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 07/30/2010 at 4:44&nbsp;PM by greywolf<hr> You are probably experiencing afterfire. <a href="http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11459" target="_blank">http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/t...PIC_ID=11459</a><br />A freer flowing exhaust allows more air to move through the system. That can cause a lean condition. On bikes that are already very lean in stock condition for emissions reasons, a free flowing after market exhaust can cause a misfire in some conditions. It appears the mixture is sometimes too lean to ignite at a particular combination of speed, gear selection and throttle opening when you are shifting. Hard Krome's own FAQ at <a href="http://www.hardkrome.com/pages/FAQ.asp" target="_blank">http://www.hardkrome.com/pages/FAQ.asp</a> recommends re-jetting carbureted bikes or modifying the fuel map on fuel injected bikes with a device such as the Dynojet Power Commander.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - 1st gear clunking sound</title><author>staticattic</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12086&amp;REPLY_ID=115920</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Wed, 28 Jul 2010 14:07:18 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12086</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 5 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 07/28/2010 at 2:07&nbsp;PM by staticattic<hr> Thanks for the replies. No, nothing has changed IRT my riding apparel. Maybe it is just in my head, but I really think it sounds different. I am not going to take it to the Honda shop yet, I am sure they will find $300 - 400 worth of things to "fix." My other ride is an air cooled '72 VW Bug. Anytime she makes a different sound than normal, I'm ready to grab my toolbox and start troubleshooting. Maybe I'm just paranoid I guess. I am a firm believer in fixing something small before it becomes major, so for now I'll just keep an eye on it. I was just wondering if it was an early indication of something. I'll keep you posted if the status changes. Thanks again.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - HELP!!!!!!!!!!!</title><author>WarHawk</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12042&amp;REPLY_ID=115775</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Fri, 23 Jul 2010 17:17:21 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12042</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 7 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 07/23/2010 at 5:17&nbsp;PM by WarHawk<hr> Never good to run your engine with the oil light on!<br /><br />I sure hope you didn't burn up your motor...if you ever see your oil light on..shut off the engine and coast to a stop...because if you starve your engine of oil..metal on metal contact is a very bad thing.<br /><br />You said in your other post your buddy dropped a penny in the oil pan?!?!]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Yamaha V-Star 650 start problem</title><author>OlHossCanada</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11543&amp;REPLY_ID=115687</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Tue, 20 Jul 2010 22:10:46 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11543</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 8 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 07/20/2010 at 10:10&nbsp;PM by OlHossCanada<hr> <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jlarysz</i><br /><br />Thanks for all the help. I charged the battery off the bike, and re-seated all the wiring on the cut-out circuits - kick stand and neutral switch. That did the trick - I'm back in business. I guess some winter corrosion set in somewhere.<br /><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"><br />Link to Dans Motorcycle Repair Course, and his info on testing, charging and replacing batteries.<br /><a href="http://www.dansmc.com/batteries.htm" target="_blank">http://www.dansmc.com/batteries.htm</a><br /><br />Suggestion to use dielectric grease to seal all your electrical connections from  future corrosion.<br /><a href="http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/specialized_maintenance_repair/electrical_system_maintenance/auto_Permatex_Dielectric_Tune-Up_Grease.htm" target="_blank">http://www.permatex.com/products/au...p_Grease.htm</a>]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Honda Shadow  Fuel Issue</title><author>scottrnelson</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12019&amp;REPLY_ID=115686</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Tue, 20 Jul 2010 21:53:25 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12019</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 28 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 07/20/2010 at 9:53&nbsp;PM by scottrnelson<hr> <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by OlHossCanada</i><br /><br />Oft times tank sealers like Creme and Por cause more problems than they solve when they start peeling and flaking off.<br /><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I've heard of problems with Creme flaking, but not with POR-15.  Are you sure that it can flake too?]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Tire Repair</title><author>OlHossCanada</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11880&amp;REPLY_ID=115683</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Tue, 20 Jul 2010 21:10:31 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11880</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 11 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 07/20/2010 at 9:10&nbsp;PM by OlHossCanada<hr> I wouldn`n t trust a string or strip type tire plug as more than an emergency measure to get back home.  However, in most conditions I would be willing to put a stopngo mushroom head plug in the tread portion of the tire and ride until the tire wore out.  They also sell the sometime so called "stinger" plug and patch combo that is installed from the inside out.<br /><a href="http://www.stopngo.com/motorcycle.asp" target="_blank">http://www.stopngo.com/motorcycle.asp</a><br /><br />However there is a way to avoid most puncture flats.  I will be installing RideOn tire sealant and balancer in my next set of new tires.  This stuff is water soluble, unlike "Slime" and some other tire sealing products, and easily washes out with a hose, making it possible to patch from the inside if needed.<br /><a href="http://www.ride-on.com/prod_mot.asp" target="_blank">http://www.ride-on.com/prod_mot.asp</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Honda CB450 clutch springs</title><author>scottrnelson</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=12043&amp;REPLY_ID=115598</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Mon, 19 Jul 2010 08:50:02 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12043</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 3 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 07/19/2010 at 8:50&nbsp;AM by scottrnelson<hr> <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dhalen32</i><br /><br />If you shim too far you could experience coil binding where the springs are essentially solid cylinders when the clutch is actuated and thus create other problems for your self.<br /><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Coil binding in a clutch is not nearly as bad as it would be with a valve spring or a spring in your suspension.  As long as the clutch releases fully, that's all you really need.  And you should be able to tell if you get coil binding before closing things up.<br /><br />I'm not saying that getting new valve springs isn't the best choice, just that coil binding of clutch springs isn't necessarily a terrible thing.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Oil filters for synthetic</title><author>SkootchNC</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11967&amp;REPLY_ID=115597</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Mon, 19 Jul 2010 05:55:09 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11967</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 15 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 07/19/2010 at 5:55&nbsp;AM by SkootchNC<hr> <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Nightwatchman</i><br /><br />Wix<br /><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"><br />The WIX 51348 (for HD TC-88) oil filter (per WIX web site) is a 20 micron filter<br />The HD premium oil filter is a 5 micron filter.<br /><br />The (locally) $2 "savings" isn't worth it to me... <br /><br />as always YOUR mileage may vary]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - 1993 Suzuki Katana 750</title><author>Apollonrop</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=10446&amp;REPLY_ID=115478</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Thu, 15 Jul 2010 23:43:22 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10446</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 56 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 07/15/2010 at 11:43&nbsp;PM by Apollonrop<hr> Thanks, for the help :)]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - '83 VF750c Magna, Fork Oil?</title><author>IronHenry</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11975&amp;REPLY_ID=115199</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Wed, 07 Jul 2010 10:09:12 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11975</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 9 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 07/07/2010 at 10:09&nbsp;AM by IronHenry<hr> Ok so I used Oldbikebarn once and got my parts, but apparently many people have had problems with them.  I can't really recommend them.  <u>Use at your own risk.</u>]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Re-jet carbs with new exhaust</title><author>WarHawk</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11876&amp;REPLY_ID=114929</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Mon, 28 Jun 2010 15:02:12 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11876</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 4 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 06/28/2010 at 3:02&nbsp;PM by WarHawk<hr> <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by wchris84</i><br /><br />Installed new pipes, bike is going into shop for a re-jet and new air intake,(might as well spend all my money[(#)] , backfiring when you get off throttle.<br /><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"><br /><br />V-Star also has a container on it called the AIS it causes the popping/backfiring of the bike<br /><br />You can disable or remove it<br /><br /><a href="http://www.vstar1100.com/jack_phelps/vstar/ais.htm" target="_blank">http://www.vstar1100.com/jack_phelps/vstar/ais.htm</a><br /><br />I have read where guys stuffed marbles into the rubber lines to "choke" the flow off so its disabled and won't suck em thru the connectors.  Does the same thing as the link but nothing is "permanetly" cut or modified.<br /><br />P.S.  This is a good V-star 1100 site<br /><a href="http://www.vstar1100.com/" target="_blank">http://www.vstar1100.com/</a><br /><br />I put V&H slipons "cruizers" on my V-Star 650 and had to re-jet (up 2 sizes)...alot more high end power and ALOT more sound..but lost about 3-4mpg, but gained instant warmup response (well 30-60 second warmup vs 5 min)<br />]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Harley front brake upgrade</title><author>halsey</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11910&amp;REPLY_ID=114494</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Mon, 14 Jun 2010 16:41:25 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11910</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 9 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 06/14/2010 at 4:41&nbsp;PM by halsey<hr> Nightrain, I agree with you, but I have tried over and over to get to the point of using both brakes during an emergency stop and although I do well in PLP, I almost lost it twice because of my inability to not mash the rear brake pedal. I just have found that if I don't practice the rear brake assist in a threshold braking run, I am less likely to "instinctively" stomp that peddle when I am trying to halt her, right now:)]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Shorter windsheild</title><author>Night Train</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=1029&amp;REPLY_ID=114432</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Sun, 13 Jun 2010 01:53:06 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1029</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 8 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 06/13/2010 at 1:53&nbsp;AM by Night Train<hr> Windshields are not one size fits all.  You want to be able to look over the windshield but enjoy it's benefits as well.  Too short can defeat the purpose.  Ideally, I would think the top of windshield should be in line with the tip of your nose.  Take a piece of masking tape and put it on your windshield where that point would be and then you can measure to get the proper height of the replacement windshield.  As mentioned above, you can cut your current windshield down but you will need another set of hands to help you do it properly.<br /><br />Once you mark the height you need, tape over that area as well as a few more inches, draw the line you want to cut and use a fine tooth blade on your jigsaw to cut along the line with someone holding the sides of the windshield for added support. You can follow the same contour as the manufacturer or modify it to your taste.  Then with a fine file or sandpaper lightly smooth out the edge of the cut, remove the tape and presto a shorter windshield that looks factory.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - does anybody have a cromeing shop hook up</title><author>biggunbob</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=5164&amp;REPLY_ID=114419</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Fri, 11 Jun 2010 19:21:57 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5164</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 3 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 06/11/2010 at 7:21&nbsp;PM by biggunbob<hr> I just can't let it be.....if you can't spell Chrome you'll not find it on the net or in your local yellow pages. Sorry bud.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Buying a non running bike... what to look for?</title><author>biggunbob</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=6369&amp;REPLY_ID=114416</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Fri, 11 Jun 2010 18:50:04 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6369</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 14 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 06/11/2010 at 6:50&nbsp;PM by biggunbob<hr> Buying a bike that doesn't run could be foolhardy. If you really want to get into it, have a good mechanic check it out and advise you how much more you may have to spend to get it to be safe.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Bug brains on leathers</title><author>biggunbob</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=6103&amp;REPLY_ID=114415</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Fri, 11 Jun 2010 18:30:00 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6103</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 5 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 06/11/2010 at 6:30&nbsp;PM by biggunbob<hr> I'd be afraid to use a washing machine but lukewarm water and saddle soap will clean it nicely and then rub in a good leather conditioner will keep it like new.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - SYNTHETIC vs. BIKE BRANDED OIL ?</title><author>biggunbob</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=4859&amp;REPLY_ID=114414</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Fri, 11 Jun 2010 18:18:56 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4859</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 21 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 06/11/2010 at 6:18&nbsp;PM by biggunbob<hr> Nolafolk is correct as are alot of you, synthetics and diesel oils are rated highly and many work well in motorcycle applications but you need to check ratings for each brand before you purchase them. Purolater filters are one of the best in independent testing if you can cross reference them to fit your bike. Fram,Mobile One and Amsoil filters may be a little harder to find locally and you'll need to cross reference them on the net to get proper numbers for your particular application and see if you can find them at your local stores or have to order them online.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Turn Signals</title><author>Gs82Seca650</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=7964&amp;REPLY_ID=114410</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Fri, 11 Jun 2010 10:47:34 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7964</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 9 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 06/11/2010 at 10:47&nbsp;AM by Gs82Seca650<hr> Again, this was a 2 yr old thread.........]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - I need a bolt but where to get it?</title><author>Gs82Seca650</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=8906&amp;REPLY_ID=114409</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Fri, 11 Jun 2010 10:43:38 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8906</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 9 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 06/11/2010 at 10:43&nbsp;AM by Gs82Seca650<hr> I assume you realize this thread was 2 yrs old, correct?]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Getting to First from Neutral from a Stop Light</title><author>Victory</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=7501&amp;REPLY_ID=114401</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Fri, 11 Jun 2010 06:18:58 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7501</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 16 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 06/11/2010 at 6:18&nbsp;AM by Victory<hr> Also check your clutch adjustment.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - How long should I warm up my bike.</title><author>biggunbob</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11256&amp;REPLY_ID=114228</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Mon, 07 Jun 2010 16:22:32 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11256</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 24 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 06/07/2010 at 4:22&nbsp;PM by biggunbob<hr> Thanks Bachman,next time I see him we'll have a talk about the bikes, he just bought it used about 6 weeks ago and it may need a little work done.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Harley oil Pressure</title><author>biggunbob</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11744&amp;REPLY_ID=114227</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Mon, 07 Jun 2010 16:14:04 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11744</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 8 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 06/07/2010 at 4:14&nbsp;PM by biggunbob<hr> My mechanic rebuilt my oil pump and put on new lines, the rebuild kit was $15.00. The oil pressure is up around 30 at idle and increases a little as speed does and is very consistent and no more oil leaks!]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - How do you check drum brakes</title><author>Gs82Seca650</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11868&amp;REPLY_ID=114209</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Mon, 07 Jun 2010 08:35:18 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11868</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 8 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 06/07/2010 at 8:35&nbsp;AM by Gs82Seca650<hr> My Seca has a "scale" on the cast portion of the rear wheel hub with a "pointer" connected to the rod that actuates the rear brakes.<br /><br />When the rear brake lever is depressed, as long as the "pointer" is still withing the "scale" your good to go.  If it goes outside the scale, you need to adjust the brakes with the nut on the rod.<br /><br />Once your out of adjustment on the rod, it's time for rear brakes.  <br /><br />Since my Seca is shaft drive, I won't be opening up the rear end unless it's time for tire replacement and I still have good tread left back there.  When I do put tires on it next time, if they are anywhere near close to worn out, I will put them on.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Changed the air filter today</title><author>Gs82Seca650</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11730&amp;REPLY_ID=114208</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Mon, 07 Jun 2010 08:28:19 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11730</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 10 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 06/07/2010 at 8:28&nbsp;AM by Gs82Seca650<hr> WOW, that is a lot TX, I wouldn't be in a rush to check or change it either then!  [:-(]]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Nail in tire, is it ruined?</title><author>brooks10</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11748&amp;REPLY_ID=114136</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Fri, 04 Jun 2010 19:45:33 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11748</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 5 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 06/04/2010 at 7:45&nbsp;PM by brooks10<hr> Thanks for the tip TX it looks like a great temporary repair. I'm glad you seem to be getting a lot of use out of your new ride.<br /><br />Steve]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - does wheel diameter affect braking</title><author>greywolf</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11844&amp;REPLY_ID=114005</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Tue, 01 Jun 2010 21:31:08 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11844</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 6 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 06/01/2010 at 9:31&nbsp;PM by greywolf<hr> Scott, Either I am using your technique or you are using mine. I'll add a peek at the rear view mirror though. I think its better push a stop light a little than to be rear ended so I won't brake hard if I'm being tailgated. And yes, I can brake hard enough to activate the ABS on both ends of my V-Strom.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Misfire under Heavy Throttle/Load</title><author>bachman1961</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11840&amp;REPLY_ID=113950</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Mon, 31 May 2010 02:12:28 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11840</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 3 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 05/31/2010 at 2:12&nbsp;AM by bachman1961<hr> <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Night Train</i><br /><br />The first thing I'd do is check the spark plugs to see if their condition will indicate which cylinder is giving you a problem.  You may have a weak spark plug in one cylinder or you could have a carb malfunction.  Either way, the spark plugs should provide a direction to look.  The spark plugs are your cheapest problem to remedy.  I would strongly consider getting the carb's sync'd as that could be part of your problem as well.<br /><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"><br /><br /><b>lufkin4</b><br /><br />I have little mechanical experience or technical background to offer but I'll guess that the new variable you threw in there with the choke is a significant clue. I assume it's only changing the fuel flow .... ie; one or more of the carbs fuel flow .. ?<br /><br />btw; Lufkin Rule circa 1918 started up in my home town.<br /><br />~brian]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - '94 - 750 Virago, lost clutch action!</title><author>greywolf</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11813&amp;REPLY_ID=113814</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Tue, 25 May 2010 14:16:29 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11813</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 2 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 05/25/2010 at 2:16&nbsp;PM by greywolf<hr> Some people do not understand the usual instruction to turn the adjuster in until it stops. Stops means contact with the push rod. You can keep turning and compress the spring. Do not do that. Turn with a light touch and stop when a light touch is no longer enough. The idea is to make sure there is a small gap between the adjuster and the push rod by making contact and backing off a set amount.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Blinking CB Error message on dash</title><author>SkootchNC</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11788&amp;REPLY_ID=113645</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Wed, 19 May 2010 05:17:33 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11788</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 9 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 05/19/2010 at 5:17&nbsp;AM by SkootchNC<hr> <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Texasphotographer</i><br /><br />bottom line is the bikes amp is bad.   Cost for amp and labor is $1150.00<br /><br /><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"><br /><br />OUCH!!!!!<br />I was lucky, on my bike I was able to go with a J&M handlebar CB. It might look "dorky" but HD wanted about $1200 between the CB, the wiring harness, antenna, etc. I had everything, except the actual unit already on hand. The unit was less than $250, and I installed it my self, in less than one hour.<br /><br />Have a safe trip, <br />Frank]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Keeping track of service, Etc</title><author>bachman1961</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11698&amp;REPLY_ID=113547</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Mon, 17 May 2010 03:20:36 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11698</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 5 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 05/17/2010 at 3:20&nbsp;AM by bachman1961<hr> <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Texasphotographer</i><br /><br />Hi All,  I keep mine in Microsoft Word, but thinking of putting it into excell so I get a calendar reminder.  As soon as I put a new trinket on the trike I enter this in word and put the sales slip into the trike folder.   This keeps everything together and if I have to exercise a warranty item, I know where to find the sales slip.<br /><br /><hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"><br /><br />I think the rule book states that a trike needs 3 folders. [:D]<br /><br />~brian]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Beyond the oil debate</title><author>Nightwatchman</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=10477&amp;REPLY_ID=113457</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Thu, 13 May 2010 15:44:30 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10477</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 17 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 05/13/2010 at 3:44&nbsp;PM by Nightwatchman<hr> For me it's Castrol Synthetic Blend (Act Evo) 10w-40, and I stick with Wix for my oil filter. I'd have put a Wix on for my air as well, but opted for a K&N. For me it's 3/3000. I don't compromise on that. I'd rather change out Amber colored oil and know that everything's hunky dory.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - 1995 Honda Shadow 600 MC</title><author>vivid dadas</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11762&amp;REPLY_ID=113303</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Sun, 09 May 2010 18:19:55 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11762</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 1 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 05/09/2010 at 6:19&nbsp;PM by vivid dadas<hr> Here's where Google says it might be.<br /><br /><a href="http://laudeman.com/hondavlx/vlx_battery.html" target="_blank">http://laudeman.com/hondavlx/vlx_battery.html</a><br /><br />If this is correct, I'm not surprised you couldn't find it.]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - I wish my bike sounded like a Harley :(</title><author>SkootchNC</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=8805&amp;REPLY_ID=113214</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Wed, 05 May 2010 21:15:23 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8805</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 44 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 05/05/2010 at 9:15&nbsp;PM by SkootchNC<hr> years late to this thread.....<br /><br />The "sound" of a Harley, is highly subjective, and as noted, is a function, of the engine design. The PO- ta-TO sound. <br />One can increase the volume of any engine, but the sound will be what the sound is... loud or quiet, it "is what it is".<br /><br />A Ducati, a Harley, a Honda, a Triumph, a BSA, a BMW, a Moto-Guzzi... make their own song.<br />I know a fellow who made a nice "cottage industry" of chopping the OEM Yamaha muffler and making the V-star (Both 650 and 1100) louder. My friends, who crank out the miles, have all gone back to stock pipes. <br />You CAN cut the baffles out. You can try different pipes, for their tone, but in the end, you will never get your bike, to sound like a different bike. If you modify one part of the engine's air flow, you will (in most cases) have to modify other parts. It might be a simple "re-jetting" of the carb(s) or it might mean a new ECM]]></description></item><item><title>Technical/Maintenance - Braking Hard, Engine Stalls</title><author>bostons</author><link>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&amp;TOPIC_ID=11746&amp;REPLY_ID=113164</link><category>Technical/Maintenance</category>
<pubDate>Tue, 04 May 2010 16:34:02 -0500</pubDate><guid>http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11746</guid>
<description><![CDATA[ There are 2 replies, with the last one, shown below, posted on 05/04/2010 at 4:34&nbsp;PM by bostons<hr> It's carbed and it fires right up afterwards. Not sure about the fuel level. Thanks for the input.]]></description></item></channel></rss>