All Things Motorcycle - Technical/Maintenance

en-us Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:43:49 -0500 ATM@msgroup.org 60 All Things Motorcycle - Technical/Maintenance http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/ All Things Motorcycle for Guest http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/ http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/rss_32.png All Things Motorcycle RSS Feed 144 47 Technical/Maintenance - Sound voice box on my Aero keeps draining my batt!!! Help!!!scottrnelsonhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=11106&REPLY_ID=107917Technical/Maintenance Fri, 20 Nov 2009 11:27:44 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11106 You should be looking for the original wires and follow them all the way back to wherever they were connected, then remove them there.

Separately, get a Battery Tender to keep your battery topped off.]]>Technical/Maintenance - Tire Pressuregymnasthttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=11040&REPLY_ID=107913Technical/Maintenance Fri, 20 Nov 2009 10:42:01 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11040 Scott, Bachman. You guys are spot on as regards the need for "an aftermarket tire guide for motorcycles". Every time I need tires for my car or truck I go online and check out the latest reviews, check owners forums, and make my final decisions. Buying replacement tires for my motorcycles is a far more nebulous process and involves a certain reliance on the reputation of the manufacturer, personal experience, guesswork, and the patterns chicken entrails.

It is not too difficult to locate manufacturer data on the internet, however applying that data to a specific motorcycle make model and year is often next to impossible. Add in factors such as the motorcycle gross (loaded) weight, tire wear considerations and so forth and making a good selection (let alone the best selection) gets even tougher. Comparing possible tire choices across various manufacturers and model data is a fairly random process.

Perhaps the popular motorcycle publications are too dependent on their advertisers to risk alienating any of them with a good objective examination of the the subject.

]]>Technical/Maintenance - New to biking... learning the ropesVstar_Markushttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=11091&REPLY_ID=107891Technical/Maintenance Thu, 19 Nov 2009 16:36:37 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11091 This is all great information. Thank you very much for taking the time and helping a new rider out!

- Mark]]>Technical/Maintenance - Yamaha V=Star 1100 Informationcooldadof4http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11099Technical/Maintenance Thu, 19 Nov 2009 11:28:26 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11099
http://www.sloneservices.com/Silver...1100-FAQ.htm

Regards,

Don]]>Technical/Maintenance - Oil leak on V Star 650WarHawkhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10996&REPLY_ID=107799Technical/Maintenance Mon, 16 Nov 2009 16:39:11 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10996

quote:
Originally posted by tim.vstar650

Oil leak resolved!

The cover holding the oil filter in place was slightly warped, the shop ground down the plate a little bit and that has resolved the issue. They also re-did one of the center screws holding the cover on that was starting to strip out. So all is well and there is no oil leak anymore.

Thanks for everyone's feedback and advise - I did appreciate it!

Tim

Yah..those things are light weight and require a slight torque, the head from the engine will make the metal expand and the "torque" stretch magically increases...imagine if you ran them down to alot more than max and when the engine heats it stress fractures or warpage.]]>Technical/Maintenance - Forks questiondhalen32http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=11079&REPLY_ID=107781Technical/Maintenance Mon, 16 Nov 2009 06:13:09 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11079 Hawk:
Like Scott, I would recommend asking your question first on a Hawk GT and then a CBR 600 forum to understand the differences in models years and their front end hardware. I also assume that F2, F3 and F4 which you refer to are a succession of models in the CBR 600 line of Honda supersport machines. I believe you will find that going from F2 to F4 that the fork tube diameters get larger and the later models even have what are called upside down or inverted forks. You will likely need to change triple clamps (and perhaps more) to make any of these changes. I assume that part of the reason to make the swap is to go from the single disc Hawk front braking system to the twin disc CBR system so you will also need to deal with replacing a master cylinder and adding brake plumbing. You can likley find all of this information on a race oriented Hawk GT forum. Good luck!
Dave
]]>Technical/Maintenance - 1982 Yamaha Maxim xj750 dies!Nieborhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=11024&REPLY_ID=107764Technical/Maintenance Sun, 15 Nov 2009 15:25:26 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11024

quote:
Originally posted by Multi-Bike
I dont know if its coincidental or not but the first time we took the seat off and tapped or bumped on and around the ignitor, rectifier, fuse box area and it starts then. The second time I just tapped around the side cover again and it started, I ask earlier with no answer but what does the ignitor do? I dont know if it is the ignitor or not but I believe that is a CDI box which are usually the brains. Maybe? Maybe not?

I guess I'm leaning away from the coil. You can usually attribute intermittant behavior to either higher temperatures or moisture. I'm not hearing that.

I am hearing two for two taps, thumps, whatever, that resulted in restart were in the same area. Not quite a pattern, but clearly a hint. I'm thinking maybe you missed one? [;)]

Hint: Often when a wire fails, the insulation remains intact. Lightly tug on a length, watch for any movement, especially at connectors and bends. Lose any corrosion, retention the female connector to make a nice tight connection. Add a little no-ox if available, if not Vaseline will do. Position all connections so that any moisture that does sneak in, drains immediately.]]>Technical/Maintenance - 1998 xr 80 starting problemNieborhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=11053&REPLY_ID=107598Technical/Maintenance Tue, 10 Nov 2009 08:13:34 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11053 Excellent!

Now I'm thinking air leak. Check each of the boots, make sure there are no large cracks.

Shoe Goo works well for sealing those up. [;)]]]>Technical/Maintenance - Issues with my Xj650 SecaNieborhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=11046&REPLY_ID=107481Technical/Maintenance Fri, 06 Nov 2009 11:54:12 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11046 The reason I was driven toward electrical IS the flooding issue. By virtue of it flooding, we know it's getting gas. Whats left? Air and spark. It seems a safe enough bet it's getting air.

If you can find an old neon pilot lamp, wrap one of the leads around a spark plug wire. Make sure it blinks when the bike is running. Tell me if it blinks when it will not start.

Keep in mind, 7-8 volts will turn the engine over at a decent rate. Weather or not the ignition module is responsive is an entirely different matter.]]>Technical/Maintenance - Speedometer accuracygwolfe1234http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=1513&REPLY_ID=107407Technical/Maintenance Wed, 04 Nov 2009 18:49:21 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1513 You could try SpeedoDRD by 12oclocklabs. It works with most bikes to calibrate the speedometer so it is dead on. Their web site is www.12oclocklabs.com. Hope this helps.

quote:
Originally posted by Daddio

This is one of my biggest pet peeves. I believe my speedometer is off by about 10%. It reads around 10% to the high side. I believe a generous speedometer is actually as dangerous as one that reads too low.

I have several two lane interstate highways that have 70 MPH speed limits. As I righteously set my speed at 70 I find 90% of the traffic is ready to roll over me. If I run at 77 MPH, I find I flow with about 50% of traffic. There are areas that the fast traffic is running 80-90 MPH without having to get aggressive in lane positioning. If you mix someone that thinks they are going 70, actually going just above 60, you are asking for trouble. I believe there is more danger presented by differential of speed, not actual high speed progress. It is actually safer to run with prevailing traffic. Your speedometer may be saying you are over 90. In fact you are barely in the 80 MPH range.

For me, I want to know how fast I am actually going. I do not like having to mentally adjust what my speedometer is telling me. I do not like being the cause of fast moving traffic backing up because I am going much slower than my speedo is telling me. I also don't like to think running at 80-85 MPH is just average.

If LEO decides I am making too much progress, it should be because I am going too fast. It should not be the result of math errors I am calculating on the fly. Of course the error margin is not as drastic when you travel in the lower speed ranges. I have never really had a problem reading 30 MPH while actually travelling 27.

Edit - Have you ever been asked by LEO, "Do you know how fast you were going?". On my bike I really and honestly could answer,"NO"!

]]>Technical/Maintenance - Brake pedalMulti-Bikehttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=11035&REPLY_ID=107345Technical/Maintenance Mon, 02 Nov 2009 20:07:52 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11035 I would guess the return spring is weak or missing. I had an intruder that had the same problem and the spring was stretched causing the brake light to stay on and I had to pull the pedal back up with my foot. I would start there..Good luck]]>Technical/Maintenance - Harley oildogdoc427http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10986&REPLY_ID=107274Technical/Maintenance Sat, 31 Oct 2009 18:15:48 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10986 Rick,

I will never be too old to learn something new, thank you!

Yet this sentence taken from the top link you provided would cause me to use caution when substituting oil based solely on viscosity

"BG does not advocate this liberal use of dissimilar oils. In order to be best protected, each application requires matching the right oil with the right additives."

There are additives, inhibitors and modifiers mixed in to make an oil more suitable for certain applications.

The bottom line for me would be to only use the oil recommended (by specification, not brand) by the oem for a given application.

Regards, Dogdoc427
]]>Technical/Maintenance - How can I tell the impact of heated clothes on a batteryNieborhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10954&REPLY_ID=107219Technical/Maintenance Fri, 30 Oct 2009 11:51:32 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10954

quote:
Originally posted by RHaynes

The only possible legitmate use might be a passenger, with a mobile uplink, doing google maps or some such.
I find the appropriate Rand-McNally page to be sufficient to my needs, but to each his own.

Perhaps. On the other hand, the new "minis" appear to have become quite popular with the Iron Butt types. They use them as a larger than normal Nav screens, video, etc. When properly mounted they require less time to review, (less time away from the road), than the smaller screens typical of bike electronics. Besides, When they get to the hotel, they use the same toy to clear their v-mail, email and upload the days video. [;)]

Of course there is the question of weather. These guys are rather creative lot. I've seen two water-proofing approaches, one that looked like it might actually work. One guy mentioned merely insuring his through his cellular provider. When it took a bath he merely exchanged the unit, and downloaded his backup from the carrier, while underway.

Hmmm, how does all that relates to the thread?... Only to say the little buggers are rather power hungry, I estimate even the little bitty laptops average 35-40 watts.

The article referenced earlier called out heated gear at 66 watts. The jacket liner alone is 77 watts, pants the same. Gloves and socks are 15 watts/pair. Be sure to work that into your estimates. A volt meter remains the best way to know if your gaining or losing at a given time. Its fine for the meter to drop into the yellow while you wait on a light. It should spend the vast majority of the time in the green range, preferably over 14V, while your moving.]]>Technical/Maintenance - vstar final drive noisecapozzirhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10900&REPLY_ID=107190Technical/Maintenance Thu, 29 Oct 2009 08:32:22 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10900

quote:
Originally posted by WarHawk

Turns out that it was the output shaft of the tranmission let loose..about $3000 to fix..but was under warranty

The 1100 has a "known" issue with the middle drive shaft. Yamaha doesn't admit to it but I have seen it on a few bikes. This is not likely the issue being experienced by the OP. The middle drive shaft failure is often preceded by the speedo not working correctly.

Rear wheel alignment is likely the cause of the rear drive noise on the 1100. If it isn't done perfectly, the rear drive will "click" when the bike is under motion. Yamaha has a very specific series of steps that need to be followed to the "T". Chances are the shop mech didn't follow those instructions. This is fairly common unfortunately.]]>Technical/Maintenance - Fuel delivery issue - SolvedRHayneshttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10907&REPLY_ID=107000Technical/Maintenance Fri, 23 Oct 2009 09:35:37 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10907 It seems to have been at least mostly just in need of a good clearing.
I ran 1/2 can of Seafoam through a full tank twice.
Yesterday, on the way home from work I had a little popping in the exhaust which I was taught usually means some uncombusted fuel. I closed the choke completely. Previously this would have resulted in a bogging engine and stalling or close to it, but she now purrs like a kitten.

I still want to do the breakdown over the winter(shop manual came in a few days ago) but at least I can enjoy the sporadic riding available for the rest of the season.
Thank you for the suggestion of the Seafoam, I hadn't heard of the product before but it did a great job!]]>Technical/Maintenance - Air FilterVictoryhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10914&REPLY_ID=106997Technical/Maintenance Fri, 23 Oct 2009 08:07:49 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10914 I am sure all the people posting their "advice" have done much research in this matter other than reading stuff on the internet which we all know is the truth.
I use K&N in all my vehicles. '99 Victory 56,000 miles and I was the first to run without the top and bottom of the air box and still do. '03 Victory had 47,000 miles on her when I traded for my '09. '06 Ranger with 20,000 miles (yeah the pickup sits in the driveway) '94 Chevy S-10 with 170,000 when I sold it.
As stated by K&N the filters work better as they get dirty, too many people clean them too soon. As research shows too many people over oil the filters and cause most problems that they blame the filter for.
If your paper filters serves you well use it, no need to verify. Just make sure to keep it changed as needed. Many people trade vehicles long before they would see a benefit from buying a K&N over buying paper filters.
If you check the best air filter is an oil filter. Think of the ones that were on vehicles like the '49 Buick I used to own. Air had to travel through the oil before getting to the fiber filter. Most people thought the filters were junk because they were covered in oil but it was proving it was doing it's job.
the only way to verify any filter over another would be to have a dual intake and different filters. After miles of use tear the intake apart, heads off and look for dirt. remember the filter does not stop varnish so don't think that's getting past your filter. Many consider varnish as dirt even when using Sta-bil you will get varnish. This makes it mandatory to clean your intakes. I usually clean my intakes when I clean my K&N. this includes cleaning the sensors. I just use a good throttle body cleaner and spray everything clean each spring. I don't live in a high dust area.
Hope this helps.]]>Technical/Maintenance - 1974 CB360SkootchNChttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10988&REPLY_ID=106937Technical/Maintenance Wed, 21 Oct 2009 14:23:37 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10988 You didn't say how many years... just that it's sat for "a few years"

Anything rubber is suspect, diaphragms, hoses, and tires... especially tires.

Restoring that bike, to ride-worthy condition, will be a labor of love. If the carb had gas in it, you're likely to face rebuilding it. Brakes may be corroded, and need re-building, I'd at least flush out the brake fluid, and replace. I agree with Scott's suggestion, and apply it to every system.

Clymers and Haynes both have detailed service manuals, which should be available via the net.

good luck
Frank]]>Technical/Maintenance - I need tires made of steel!RickRussellTXhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10898&REPLY_ID=106613Technical/Maintenance Mon, 12 Oct 2009 02:24:22 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10898 I use Slime in the tires of my Honda Helix (CN250). There is a significant self-balancing effect, which surprised me a bit.

I haven't had a documented puncture yet, and honestly Slime or any other sealing product is not going to solve that problem. You'll still need to locate and remove the foreign object, and perform an additional plugging job for an appropriate level of safety.

Statistically, the rear tire gets hit more often -- one of the big motorcycle studies, Hurt or MAIDS, actually tracked it. The theory is that the most road debris tends to rest with the pointy bits parallel the ground, but the front wheel kicks it into the air and there is a non-zero chance that it will get wedged into the rear tire.

RR]]>Technical/Maintenance - Disc brake padsbrooks10http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10933&REPLY_ID=106430Technical/Maintenance Mon, 05 Oct 2009 18:16:45 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10933 Thanks very much Meromorph, Night Train and Scott. I have done little googling and liked Meromorph's reference to " flapping your arms and flying".

Steve]]>Technical/Maintenance - Cb 750 bogs at highway speedsbikes 25 yrs or betterhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10908&REPLY_ID=106425Technical/Maintenance Mon, 05 Oct 2009 15:00:29 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10908 [:D]

So get this. When starting to switch the slides on No. 1 and No.4 I noticed the collar the needle goes in looked different so I unscrewed the float bowl and sure enough the needle jet had unscrewed itself and was laying in the bottom of the bowl. Once screwed in it road smooth thru out throttle range.

There is still a little haunt out of the 3 & 4 pipe but I imagine thats a balance problem/sync problem but she has pep. It still runs at high RPMs on the highway (between 6k & 7k) but I have no idea if this is normal for that bike. Even at that RPMS, its only about half way on the tach. The chain also has extra slack and the brake stablizer nut came off without cotter pin but other then that, I think I can confidently finish out the season with this bike. Still have to figure whats up with the gas leakage on No. 1 carb and the water contamination but yeah... I'm a happy rider.]]>Technical/Maintenance - virago shifter noiseThe Meromorphhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10931&REPLY_ID=106357Technical/Maintenance Sat, 03 Oct 2009 22:32:34 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10931 On the shifting, try pre-loading the shift lever, and then just 'fanning' the clutch while maintaining the upward pressure.
It works on BMWs, another 'agricultural' shift mechanism. [:D]]]>Technical/Maintenance - Wow??greywolfhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10913&REPLY_ID=106245Technical/Maintenance Wed, 30 Sep 2009 13:49:25 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10913 There is more to the need for higher octane than measured compression ratio. Cam timing, combustion chamber shape, number of valves and etc. come into play. My bike has an 11.5:1 ratio and runs fine on 87 octane using the North American standard (r+m)/2 method, which is the manufacturer's recommended fuel. Using the lowest rating that doesn't cause pinging is the way to go unless your vehicle has a knock sensor and you want maximum power. That includes very few bikes. Follow the info in the owner's manual.]]>Technical/Maintenance - Engine shutoff problem!Alisonhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10375&REPLY_ID=106158Technical/Maintenance Tue, 29 Sep 2009 11:28:16 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10375 The incident I mentioned to Steve was actually the same one I wrote about on "Sharing of lessons learned." I have never had any other mishaps in 4 years and 20,000 miles, thank goodness.
]]>Technical/Maintenance - CB750C IDLES HIGHER AS IT WARMS UPbikes 25 yrs or betterhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10654&REPLY_ID=106136Technical/Maintenance Mon, 28 Sep 2009 15:49:59 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10654 Ok so I handled the choke problem as it seemed as if the plates were stiff and really mot closing more the cable came out of the support. The solenoid problem was also handled by taking apart the solenoid and cleaning it out with contact cleaner. I also used the manometer with water and was able to sync the carbs some what although this is what I noticed as I increased the rpmsthe number four reduced vaccum and the no. 1 increased. The no. 1 also had the most out of balance on the shim test (intake .06/.08 and exhaust .102/.127 the rest were .08/.102mm)

The bike starts and runs fine at low speeds but at high speeds, (rpms) it bogs down as if missing. I also went over the ignition advance, cleaning and grease again checking springs and reinstalled it. The timing was dead on but the hgh rpm mark is off. At this point I wonder what if there is other parts of the ignition system that is marginal or can cause the timing to alter at higher rpms. I still havent ruled out the carbs main jet or vacuum problem but I need some ideas. I will start a new thread for this problem.]]>Technical/Maintenance - Time for tiresThe Meromorphhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10575&REPLY_ID=106128Technical/Maintenance Mon, 28 Sep 2009 12:08:14 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10575 I have just found the first 'good' reason, IMO, I have seen for the prescription to change both tires at once and use the same brand at both ends. I should note that it doesn't convince me you must do it, but there are good reasons for the advice.

The quote is from a highly respected advanced riding instructor in England, and was dated today. His online name is 'The Spin Doctor', and he administers the safety section at two English motorcycle websites.

quote:
Tyres generate what's called "slip". This is because you don't get a 'solid' contact between tyre and road surface. The tyre actually drifts slightly tangentially to the direction of travel, because of factors like tread block deformation (get hold of an eraser, hold it on the paper and push down and sideways at the same time - it bends. Release the downward pressure and it springs straight again. Every single tread block that is in contact with the road does the same, so the tyre 'walks' slightly sideways. Slip also occurs because the tyre wears - tiny fragments of rubber are torn off the tyre, and the tyre slips an equally tiny amount.

But tyres as pairs are designed for the slip angle at the rear to exceed slip angle at the front; ie the rear drifts more than the front. That gives you a nice "planted" feel for the front tyre.

This is one reason you should fit matched pairs of tyres and replace them at the same time. Different compounds/profiles/makes and part worn tyres cannot be guaranteed to have the right slip characteristics.

]]>Technical/Maintenance - Brake not releasingWarHawkhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10896&REPLY_ID=106125Technical/Maintenance Mon, 28 Sep 2009 11:53:07 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10896 Sounds like you may have some crud in the fluid return hole on the master cylinder...if it gets cruddied up there is no place for the fluid to flow BACK into the master cylinder.

I had to pull mine apart (on the 82 Silverwing) and use a bristle from a wire brush to wallow out the poo that had built up over time in that hole (its teeny tiny...like 1/64th or smaller (like the diameter of a mechanical pencil lead), so it doesn't take much to clog it up

]]>Technical/Maintenance - speedy signal lightsgdickelmanhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10899&REPLY_ID=106091Technical/Maintenance Sat, 26 Sep 2009 18:57:55 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10899

quote:
Originally posted by jbooradley

[:(] Both sockets spotless. New bulbs installed - speedy flashing on signal lights is still there! Any other suggestions? [?]

I had an intermittent problem of this sort on my Guzzi. Quite accidentally, I noticed that if I shifted in the saddle or lifted then dropped my backside, it would stop (sometimes). I removed the seat and found that one directional wire was under the seat and against the rear fender. I wiggled the wire around a bit and that fixed the problem temporarily.

Finally, after the problem returned for the 20th time, I traced the wire to a quick disconnect junction. I disconnected it, cleaned the connectors, and reconnected. I haven't had the problem since. (That was AFTER swapping/replacing bulbs, flasher, etc.)

It was either a short or a carbon buildup at the junction (likely the latter). So try tracing the wires and clean up any junctions, clear any pinches or potential shorts, etc.
]]>Technical/Maintenance - Carb help on 98 gsxr 600Deseret Riderhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10894&REPLY_ID=106046Technical/Maintenance Thu, 24 Sep 2009 19:25:52 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10894 I,ve read that this bike is a finiky starter anyway---Revs walk up the scale as the bike warms with the choke on---then dies if the choke is turned off too soon. If the mix is lean with the K&N (that makes sense) then you will want to richen the idle mixture as per Warhawks post---and probably will also have to richen the mix across the entire throttle range. Do this by raising the needles in the carbs to the next notch which will richen the mix to about 3/4 throttle. If it's lean above 3/4 throttle you will want to go up a size on the main jet (and probably then drop the needles back to the original position. Trial and error is the only way I know to get it right if you don't want to pay the dealer to do it for you.]]>Technical/Maintenance - Turn signal mountin ideas?SkootchNChttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10890&REPLY_ID=105995Technical/Maintenance Wed, 23 Sep 2009 07:48:07 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10890 You might try a local motorcycle "junkyard", or ask around the various brand/model specific forums, as they are a common "modification"

My personal favorite source of OEM equipment, is http://www.bikebandit.com/
Usually has the parts, and at a better price than dealerships.

as always, your experience may vary
Frank]]>Technical/Maintenance - Honda 2007 VT750C2WarHawkhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10868&REPLY_ID=105825Technical/Maintenance Fri, 18 Sep 2009 13:13:25 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10868 Honda Shadow Spirit is just like my Yamaha V-star is shaft drive [aka has a gear box]...gear drives require heavy oil 80/90W...good synthetic gear oil will go a LOOOONG way!

Great job on a Honda...take care of it...they are almost bullet proof!

]]>Technical/Maintenance - 1998 Honda Aero - joint water hose drips- HOLY COW! Update (more)greywolfhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10750&REPLY_ID=105692Technical/Maintenance Tue, 15 Sep 2009 10:39:07 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10750 O-rings are usually synthetic so WD-40 probably is okay but be aware petroleum products are bad for real rubber. There wouldn't be enough involved to contaminate the coolant either. It's a good practice to use the same material a seal is meant to contain to lubricate it. Brake fluid for rebuilding master cylinders and calipers, coolant for cooling system parts, grease for grease seals and oil for oil seals.

I'll agree with WarHawk. Women who do their own maintenance are hot. I still have a thing for the mechanic of the space ship Serenity on the SF program "Firefly". Good on ya!]]>Technical/Maintenance - Headlight bulb burned outdogdoc427http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10712&REPLY_ID=105499Technical/Maintenance Tue, 08 Sep 2009 21:05:21 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10712

quote:
Originally posted by Texasphotographer

As for an emergency bulb, I think for the time being I will put one in my saddle bag.

Texasphotographer,

I keep a spare bulb of each type and 3 or 4 fuses of each rating in the tool compartment just in case. Oh yeah, a flash light too, in case its dark when I need to change a bulb.

Regards, Dogdoc427]]>Technical/Maintenance - Wireless tire pressure monitorTexasphotographerhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10717&REPLY_ID=105497Technical/Maintenance Tue, 08 Sep 2009 20:50:50 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10717 I maybe, no check that am guilty of not checking my bike everytime before I go for a local ride, but I do at nearly 71 years of age check the tire pressure daily. I keep a guage in my saddle bag. It is the safe thing to do and I do not have to rely on something that can break. Have to admit, I have tire pressure sensing on my cage and that works very well. When I had On Star I would get a monthly read-out of vehicle diags and the tire pressure of each wheel was indicated.

But I am old-school. I believe that a student should know addition, subtraction or a bit of arithmetic before relying on a calculator and soldiers must know how to read a map before putting their lives in the hands of a $1.00 GPS battery.]]>Technical/Maintenance - misses when cruisingVictoryhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10816&REPLY_ID=105485Technical/Maintenance Tue, 08 Sep 2009 07:45:48 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10816 Check to make sure your battery cables are properly set and tight. Had this happen one bike and it was a loose connection. On another bike I had a bad battery cable. It was tough to find because the damage was inside the insulation. Also check that you have a good ground from the battery.]]>Technical/Maintenance - 2000 Honda Shadwo A.C.E only starts intermittently?SkootchNChttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10674&REPLY_ID=105447Technical/Maintenance Mon, 07 Sep 2009 12:43:08 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10674 The starter button will "go bad" even without the extra load.... a simple removal, and cleaning, often seems to clear it up.

Sorry I can't give you better guidence, I've read about folks having the problem, but never actually faced it myself.

If you post on Delphi (it's free) you'll get some good advice.]]>Technical/Maintenance - Intermittent squeak from the rear of my V-StarNieborhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10819&REPLY_ID=105435Technical/Maintenance Mon, 07 Sep 2009 07:21:47 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10819 The key is isolating the noise. If you haven't heard a particular sound before, that's the tricky part. Lets start with: metal-to-metal or rubber-to-metal? A couple things to try:

Try tapping brakes while it's squeaking, if it's brake related the sound will likely change.

Try adding a drop of oil to both shock rods and a quick shot of silicone spray at the four mount bushings.

Try a quick shot of silicone spray at the swingarm bushings. If the arm itself has a zerk and can be greased, try that.

Check for any loose bolts or fasteners. Forcefully try to move things like backrests, fenders, bags, etc.

Spokes, covered earlier. They are notorious though. Tap each one with a wood or plastic rod, listen for the "ting". Any spoke that instead produces a "thud" is loose. If two or less are slightly loose, you can try merely tightening them. Any More than that, I suggest you have a professional properly true the wheel.

]]>Technical/Maintenance - Tire PressureGs82Seca650http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10810&REPLY_ID=105383Technical/Maintenance Sat, 05 Sep 2009 16:02:37 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10810

quote:
Originally posted by James R. Davis

quote:
Scott is spot-on. PSI listed on tire sidewalls is MAX PSI. Not RECOMMENDED PSI The MFG has reached the best all around 'compromise' between handling/comfort/wear.

Though that is true for OEM tires on a bike, it is not necessarily true of replacements.

Indeed, some people, myself included, are perfectly satisfied to use the MAX PSI rating of a tire (or close to it) and have done so for MANY years with complete satisfaction.

100% Agreed.]]>Technical/Maintenance - Propane conversion?gymnasthttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10788&REPLY_ID=105127Technical/Maintenance Sun, 30 Aug 2009 19:45:09 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10788 Ric, Google "small engine propane conversions" and you will find a wealth of information on the subject including many companies that supply conversion parts.]]>Technical/Maintenance - 1996 yamaha viragoscottrnelsonhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10777&REPLY_ID=105085Technical/Maintenance Sat, 29 Aug 2009 18:44:10 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10777

quote:
Originally posted by dogdoc427

By the definition I have come to know of over 25 yrs as a diesel mechanic, if you can accelerate you are not lugging the engine. You may be out of the operating range, power band, torque band and you may still be doing damage to your engine but you are not "lugging" it.

After doing a search for the definition of the word "lug" or "lugging" in reference to engines I concluded that there are as many definitions as there are ways to abuse your engine.

I didn't think there was a precise definition of that term, and now you've verified it.

I prefer to describe engine behavior as being "happy" or "unhappy", but that is probably more vague. And then with an engine like the 4-valve Ducati engine in my 888 Superbike, that one gets beyond "happy" to where it's "really excited" once it gets past 7000 rpms. And at 3000 rpms it is just "bored". I'm sure I've already over analyzed this. [;)]]]>Technical/Maintenance - What does Seafoam doGuildmanhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10740&REPLY_ID=104974Technical/Maintenance Wed, 26 Aug 2009 13:48:57 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10740 I'm a fan of the stuff. I run 1/2 a bottle through my star about 4 times a year. For me, it seems to really have the most impact in the winter.]]>Technical/Maintenance - Changing front rimNight Trainhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10762&REPLY_ID=104899Technical/Maintenance Mon, 24 Aug 2009 04:38:41 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10762 First of all, I would suggest that if you are going to start doing anything to your bike, you should buy the shop manual for it. You will find the manual to be your Motorcycle Bible and the most important tool in your arsenal.

If you have never changed out a wheel on a bike before, I would caution against doing it alone for the first time. One mistake can cost you your life or serious injury.

My recommendation would be to take it to a shop that will allow you to watch them do the work so you can see how it's done properly so you will have a handle on what to do next time around.

Alternately, you could enlist the help of a friend or associate who has experience changing out motorcycle wheels to work with you on it.

Changing the wheel is not a complicated process but it has to be done correctly.

You will have to jack up the bike and secure it to the jack with the front wheel off the ground by at least 3 inches. Loosen the axle nut, and mark one of your wheel spacers, to ensure you replace it on the correct side. If you are sitting, facing the bike, the shock lower on your left should have two bolts on the bottom, loosen these to allow the axle retaining end of the lower to drop down but not completely off. Now remove the axle nut (cotter pin first of course), and washer, set it down where you can keep track of it.

Now have someone hold the front wheel in place, or alternately block the wheel in a manner that it is not under stress, and slide out the axle, taking care to remove the spacers on both sides as you slowly remove the axle. Place each spacer on the floor on the side of the bike that they came from. You can now drop down the wheel and roll it out from under the fender and set it aside. Do not touch the front brake lever at this point. For insurance, find something about the thickness of your rotor and place it between the brake pads in your caliper. Clean off your axle and put fresh grease or anti-seize on the entire non threaded portion and set it down beside the bike. Check your new wheel to ensure the tire is mounted in the right direction (direction arrow on sidewall), check the tire pressure to ensure it is correct, and double check the torque on the nuts holding the rotor in place.

Now roll the new wheel into place under the fender and have your assistant lift the wheel while you remove the shim you placed between your brake pads and guide the rotor between them as the wheel is lifted. Check to make sure you don't have any grease or oil on the rotor, if you do, clean it off. Now hold the spacer for the side that will be to your left, in place while you insert the axle through the shock lower, the spacer and into the wheel. Have your assistant maintain holding the wheel while you hold the right spacer in place and continue pushing the axle through the wheel, the spacer, and the shock lower to your right. Ensure the axle is pushed in all the way. While your wheel is being supported, snug the two nuts at the bottom of the shock lower to your left, then install the axle washer and nut and snug them. Now the assistant can let go of the wheel. Spin the wheel and apply the front brake. Do this at least three times to ensure the front brake is working properly.

Now go back and tighten the two nuts on the bottom of the shock lower and tighten the axle nut. I don't know the torque of the two shock lower bolts (I use self locking nuts for those and tighten them as tight as I can). Your axle nut should be torqued to 75lbs. Then insert the cotter pin through the axle and axle nut. Lower the bike off the jack, remove the hold down straps and take the bike for a slow ride around the block to ensure all is working well. Before you even leave the garage or driveway, try your front brake a couple of times at least to ensure they are working properly.

As part of my normal maintenance, I check the tightness of the two axle retaining bolts on the bottom of the shock lower. I have had the front end changed by a dealer only to have those two bolts come off on my first ride after leaving the dealership and not rechecking them myself.

You have my recommendations of what to do in this regard as well as a general idea of what is involved in performing the work yourself. It is now up to you to decide which avenue is best for you. Good luck with your new wheel, I trust it looks more appealing than the stock wheel[;)]

]]>Technical/Maintenance - How can you check the servicing your bike getsrayg50http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10724&REPLY_ID=104724Technical/Maintenance Tue, 18 Aug 2009 19:40:14 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10724 Frank, you are a New Yorker at heart and I mean that in a good way.

I too was surprised that they did not have a checklist but it was just as well since what I wanted was "off the menu". My bikes service schedule per the MOM hits every 4k miles. I am about 2k short of the next one but wanted certain things done anyway.

I see your point about him torquing things to spec. When I get a chance I will find a fastener that is marked and requires a torque. I'll loosen it and then torque it to see if his mark lines up. I wiped the bike down with a clean paper towel and so far everything has come up dry. In a couple of days I will do it again.

Before I had my own bike and was doing PLP with bikes owned by friends I had asked about where they took theirs for servicing. The only one that did not recommend this place has an H-D (nuff said) [}:)].

4k miles comes too fast ($$) so I do intend to do some of the servicing myself but not this soon in the game. I figure the cold months it will give me something to do and an excuse to ride it around a little to test what I have done. [8D]

Thanks for the heads up, I appreciate it.

Ray

]]>Technical/Maintenance - Honda QuestionsWarHawkhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10735&REPLY_ID=104654Technical/Maintenance Mon, 17 Aug 2009 12:57:28 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10735 I have found on my Yamaha that sometimes I need to roll my bike forward a few inches then re-try to find neutral, its like it finds a sweet spot right between the gears and won't go into neutral unless you move it a inch or two while the engine is running to pop it back into neutral.

Maybe by adjusting the idle up a few hundred rpm's might help the warmup/stalling issue.

What we did in my BRC course before we started the training was have the bikes staged, start them up (training on how to start them after doing our walkaround inspections) and then while they were warming up putting along in the background) the instructor went over a few finer tips before we actually got on the bikes (this was on the 2nd day after our initial training by the way...on day 1 the bikes were pre-staged at the training course already) (we had Japanese/Chinese spinoff import 125cc though)]]>Technical/Maintenance - Honda Rebel wont startDaddiohttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10719&REPLY_ID=104547Technical/Maintenance Thu, 13 Aug 2009 21:06:54 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10719 Is the bike fuel injected or carburated? Gas odor in the air filter sounds like a flooding condition. Do you have a choke adjustment? Once warm do you turn the choke off? Does the bike have a manual gas petcock. Then it is carburated. Does the petcock have a prime position? If you leave your switch in prime you are susceptable to flooding because the gas wants to flow into the carbs even though there is no demand.
The only self induced causes for gas odor that I can think of are misadjusted choke or a bad petcock/petcock in wrong position.

Let us know how you make out.]]>Technical/Maintenance - 1998 Honda 1100 Aero - water leakjbooradleyhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10727&REPLY_ID=104522Technical/Maintenance Thu, 13 Aug 2009 14:04:56 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10727 Thank you for replying. I will take your suggestions and run with it. You guys (& gals) ROCK!!

One more little question, please.... to replace the hose, how would you do it? Remove the engine??? [8)]]]>Technical/Maintenance - Radial tire on non-radial bike?Indiana Randyhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10709&REPLY_ID=104373Technical/Maintenance Mon, 10 Aug 2009 08:41:18 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10709 The only concern I am aware of with switching to radials is rim width.

This question often surfaces on sites with 80's bikes. The rims on the 80's bikes are too narrow for the radial tires to fit properly.]]>Technical/Maintenance - Center Cylinders Not Firingbikes 25 yrs or betterhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=10681&REPLY_ID=104157Technical/Maintenance Wed, 05 Aug 2009 07:23:44 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10681 I agree that there may be an electrical connection issue either at the spart units or the CDI. also see if the paint job is stopping a ground wire that is attached to the coil wire from making contact to the frame. If you have two coils and one coils connects the middle two and the other the outter two then youmay have to trouble shoot the coils and spark units by swoping them around and see if symptoms the same.]]>Technical/Maintenance - Vstar 650 oil changebzippihttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?whichpage=-1&TOPIC_ID=7747&REPLY_ID=104056Technical/Maintenance Mon, 03 Aug 2009 18:23:00 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7747 I agree that the service manual is copyrighted and should be purchased. However, if you are just interested in changing the oil, that procedure is outlined in the owner's manual (in my manual, Page 6-11). If you don't have a manual, it can be downloaded for free from Yamaha's Web site.]]>Technical/Maintenance - 2000 Honda Shadow A.C.E kickstand switch position?daveybuoyhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10679Technical/Maintenance Sun, 02 Aug 2009 13:35:54 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10679
Thanks for all the help before, but I had one last question for those in the know.

I had to disassemble my kickstand switch to get at my oil filter today, and even though the switch casing has a notch it slides in to, there's a little metal ring with a second notch that sticks up on a ring around the bolt that re attaches it.

I can't figure out how to get this back in to the proper position, and there's no markings. It doesn't seem to have a spring on it either, so it is consistently spinning out of position even if I get it right.

Anyone have this style/model of stand switch? Ideas?]]>Technical/Maintenance - Rivet-type master linksscottrnelsonhttp://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10671Technical/Maintenance Sat, 01 Aug 2009 14:22:42 -0500http://www.msgroup.org/forums/mtt/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10671
So when I've installed a rivet-type master link I've always measured carefully and been a bit apprehensive about getting the exact fit. I was wondering if there was a way to make some little metal spacers to help out with this.

Well, last week I had to buy a new chain in a hurry, so I got an EK Quadra-X SRX X-ring chain from Cycle Gear and didn't realize until too late that it only came with a clip-type master link. I put that on, but didn't ride the bike much (since I don't trust clip master links on the highway), then ordered a matching rivet-type master link from Cycle Gear.

When I went to install the new master link this morning I had the pleasant surprise that it came with a set of spacers to get the exact distance when installing the new master link. It was so much nicer installing this link, because I just slid the two spacers into place then pressed the plate on until it was tight, and finally expanded out the two rivets until I got a bit of resistance. The spacers didn't exactly just fall out afterwards, but they weren't that hard to get back out of there. And now I know that this master link is installed exactly the right way.

One of the spacers with the master link:

The two spacers installed:

]]>