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BigEarl
Starting Member
4 Posts
Gaffney, SC
USA
Harley-Davidson
Road King Classic
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 Posted - 11/30/2005 : 6:43 AM
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I am trailering my Road King this weekend for the first time - going to a distant city to take the MSF course!
Awhile back, I read somewhere that you do not use the handlebars for tie downs, but I have search long and hard for that info and cannot find it now.
Any help/suggestions are very much appreaciated!
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scottrnelson
Advanced Member
4863 Posts
[Mentor]
Pleasanton, CA
USA
Ducati
ST2, 888, + XR650L
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Posted - 11/30/2005 : 7:02 AM
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I've tied down motorcycles using the handlebars and also using the fork leg just above the bottom triple clamp. Of course, I've never tried to tie down anything as heavy as a Road King. The most important thing is to find places on the bike where the tie down straps won't be also rubbing fairings or cables. I've seen a few big bikes like that in trucks, parked on their sidestands and tied so that they can't move.
With a bike that big, I would use a minimum of four tiedown straps. |
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Gs82Seca650
 Moderator
1892 Posts
[Mentor]
Southern, PA
USA
Yamaha
1982 XJ 650 R Seca
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Posted - 11/30/2005 : 7:13 AM
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Hi BigEarl,
As Scott said, when I tie my bikes down in my pickup bed, I put one 2 1/2" ratchet strap across the bottom triple tree, and compress the front forks slighty for stability. Each end of the ratchet strap is connected to the front of the bed.
I then put one ratchet strap on either side of the rear of the bike to stabilize that part of it as well. I leave the bike on the side stand when I haul it. My Seca is fairly heavy, but not so much so as a Road King. When I tie the Seca down using the above method, it's rock solid and not going anywhere.
Take care and have fun at the MSF! |
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OtherChris
Junior Member
76 Posts
[Mentor]
Worcester, MA
USA
Honda
Reflex
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Posted - 11/30/2005 : 7:40 AM
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Just be sure that your tie downs are DOT approved. If something were to happen and the bike got loose, your insurance company can and likely will deny your claim to any damage to the bike or anything they 'think' might have been caused by the bike if inferior straps were used. And yes, I know that DOT straps are WAY expensive.
A friend of mine had his car trailer rear ended 10 years ago and the car was busted free and managed to fall off to the side. Oncomming traffic struck the car which in turn totaled the vehicle that had rear ended the trailer. Because non DOT straps were used, my friend was found at fault for the majority of the damage and his insurance company refused to pay up until they were taken to court and it was decided that even a DOT strap would have failed in the collision. The final cost of the whole matter out of his pocket was over $40,000.
Had DOT straps been used, the driver of the other vehicle would have been found 100% at fault. Makes the premium of those DOT straps look a LOT cheaper. |
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don_hud
Advanced Member
1077 Posts
[Mentor]
Houston, Texas
USA
Yamaha
1997 Virago XV1100
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Posted - 11/30/2005 : 8:04 AM
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I prefer to back up the ratcheted tie downs with a good strong rope. I don’t really trust the tie downs 100% regardless of the quality of them. Tie it down securely with the tie downs and then add the rope after you have it locked in place with the tie downs.
You might also put a block between the frame and the front tire so that the front end is solid when you compress the front suspension and also so that you won’t have to compress the suspension to the bottom to get it firm.
More is better, you can’t over secure it.
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nomad dan
Advanced Member
1276 Posts
Denver, Colorado
USA
Kawasaki
06 Vulcan Nomad 1600
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Posted - 11/30/2005 : 9:41 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by BigEarl
I am trailering my Road King this weekend for the first time - going to a distant city to take the MSF course!
Awhile back, I read somewhere that you do not use the handlebars for tie downs, but I have search long and hard for that info and cannot find it now.
Any help/suggestions are very much appreaciated!
I've put my nomad, similar to a road king-hardbags crashbars winshield, in my truck. I block the front tire from moving side to side, your trailer might have wheel chokes built into the rails. I use ratcheting straps on each side of the crash bars and/the backrest. I use one on each side of the handlebars pulling forward and down compressing the forks only a couple of inches. Done this way I can grab hold of the backrest and shake side to side hard and the truck rocks back and forth, but the bike stays rock solid. I've gone a few hundred miles that way without it moving at all.
Good luck
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Indiana Randy
Moderator
1821 Posts
[Mentor]
Fort Wayne, Indiana
USA
Honda
2000 Magna V4 750
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Posted - 11/30/2005 : 10:31 AM
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Welcome to the board BigEarl!
I use a two bike trailer for very long distances.
I feel better when the two front ratchet straps go around the triple tree or front forks instead of the handlebars. Ratchet them down to compress the forks about half way. Take care NOT to snug them all the way down or you can blow the fork seals with a big bump.
I then add a ratchet strap to each side of the bike midway and two more for the rear going to/around the frame. (6 straps total)
Once secure, plan to stop within the first 10 miles (or sooner) to check for tightness. Then, every time you stop check them again. Without exception, I find one or more of the straps somehow got loose and needed tightened! 
Best of luck with your tow and have fun with your course!
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Victory
Advanced Member
602 Posts
[Mentor]
Pawcatuck, CT
USA
Victory
10th Anny Vision
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Posted - 12/01/2005 : 8:26 AM
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A quick question, you must be taking the Advanced MSF course to need your own bike? Cause they supply bikes for the beginner course.
I have strapped down my bikes useing the handlebars but make sure you strap close to the triple tree and compress the shock. I use a small loop strap on the handlebars and then attach to the rachet straps.
In the rear I use the frame. I have had the bike strapped in for 2 days to Sturgis and no damage to the forks or handlebars.
I have a Toy Traz in my truck so I can't help you as a stand alone strap down in back of your truck. Just make sure she is strapped down tight and any time you stop check your straps. If it's your first time, stop at the end of your driveway and check then check at the end of your street and check about a mile down the road. It's amazing how much a bike bounces around strapped down. The next time you will know how tight to make the straps for the trip.
Good luck.
Knew a dealer that trusted the floor hooks in his trailer, one ripped out and damaged 3 bikes. LOTS of straps. |
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Niebor
Ex-Member
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Posted - 12/01/2005 : 11:23 AM
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| I guess what i'm hearing is the anchor points are more likely to fail than the straps. I've put in many a mile with a bike in the back of a pickup. I find it entertaining how the suspension on the bike interacts with that of the truck. The only time I ever laid the bike down was due to the proverbial pothole, and slack allowing the lower hook to slip out of the anchor point. I learned to tape off the lower anchor points. The upper is not inclined to leave the bar regardless of how far the suspension is compressed. Another thought, IMHO, you really don't want the forks compressed any longer than necessary. A couple days in my mind. At least turn them loose for awhile every other day. Good time to inspect your straps anyhow. Colorado's high altitude sun takes its toll. I've never got more than a year two out of a set of straps. |
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BigEarl
Starting Member
4 Posts
Gaffney, SC
USA
Harley-Davidson
Road King Classic
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Posted - 12/01/2005 : 11:59 AM
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Thanks for all the info!!
Regarding Victory's question, in South Carolina, we have 3 classes. I'm doing the intermediate class this year and plan on doing the experienced class yearly.
Beginners (they supply the bikes)
-5 hours class room Friday evenings and Saturday and Sunday 8 hours each hands on.
Intermediate - already riding (500 miles+ experience) and have MC permit and own your own MC.
-4 hours class room Friday evenings and 8 hours Saturday OR Sunday hands on.
Experienced - 2 hour class and 5 hour hands on.
I would like to become an instructor later on, but I do not have that much experience as I just started back riding this summer at the age of 52. I rode some in my early 20s but gave it up after I realized Miller and Bud did not go with riding MCs. |
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scottrnelson
Advanced Member
4863 Posts
[Mentor]
Pleasanton, CA
USA
Ducati
ST2, 888, + XR650L
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Posted - 12/01/2005 : 1:10 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Niebor
I guess what i'm hearing is the anchor points are more likely to fail than the straps.
It all depends on the anchor point. When I got back into dirt biking about 1998 or 1999, I bought an old F-150 to haul the bikes in. First thing I did was examine the underside of the pickup bed to determine where I could put in some good anchor points. I then drilled three holes in the bed and installed some good strong eye bolts (I-bolts?) that are still there. I never worried in the slightest about those failing.
Now that the dirt bikes are gone, I'm finally going to get rid of that old truck next week. The California Clean Air Board is going to pay $650 to get it off of the street. I'll be glad to get rid of it.  |
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JillzzandMe
Standard Member
207 Posts
Florence, South Carolina
USA
Honda
Sabre
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Posted - 12/02/2005 : 1:16 PM
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Hey BigEarl,
I made the mistake of getting the non-ratcheting tie downs to save some money. They've always held up okay but needed snugging up at every stop. So the moral of that story is spent the extra couple bucks to get the ratchets AND make sure they have a high enough load rating, ie. 1200 lbs.
I'd love to get your feedback from the class after you take it? I took the intermediate class and loved it. I plan to take the experienced class in the next year. I've heard that one of the drills is the serpentine with one hand on the handlebars.
Good luck with the class. |
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Tie Down Road King for Trailering