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Axiom2000
Male Moderator
1761 Posts
[Mentor]


Georgetown, Delaware
USA

BMW

F 800 GT

Posted - 12/28/2009 :  1:52 PM                       Like
Last weeks snow storm presented the opportunity to make some changes on the motorcycle that have been needed for some time. First up was the location of the GPS. Originally dealer installed down low between the handle bars, obviously required looking down to see and operate, not a good thing. Before and after pic. Rode with it yesterday and it is much better.





Next, over the past two years I added a volt meter and some driving lights both wired to switches installed on the upper part of the right side faring. Problem, anytime I needed to remove the faring for service I had to disconnect everything at the switches, if it was headed to the dealer for service then bundling all the wires up out of the way was required. In addition the battery posts could just not hold any more connections and it looked like a can of worms under the seat. Solution, a Centech AP-2 Fuse block to eliminate the mess at the battery and a terminal strip attached on the back of the faring for EZ on/off with the wires for the switches. More pics




More than happy with the results and surprise surprise I got it all wired up right the first time.

bachman1961
Male Advanced Member
2271 Posts
[Mentor]


colorado springs, co
USA

Honda

CB750 NightHawk

Posted - 12/29/2009 :  1:57 AM

Jerry;

Very nice. I thought a 1200 was an aircraft. Thanks for the photos of the cockpit confirming that!

I see no pictures of you out shoveling snow, guess I'll have to take your word for it ... " snow days project ".


~brian
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Axiom2000
Male Moderator
1761 Posts
[Mentor]


Georgetown, Delaware
USA

BMW

F 800 GT

Posted - 12/29/2009 :  6:17 AM
quote:
Very nice. I thought a 1200 was an aircraft. Thanks for the photos of the cockpit confirming that!

I see no pictures of you out shoveling snow, guess I'll have to take your word for it ... " snow days project ".


Brian,
I did shovel snow swear it, had to after the snow blower ran out of gas.


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James R. Davis
Male Administrator
17377 Posts
[Mentor]


Houston, TX
USA

Honda

GoldWing 1500

Posted - 12/29/2009 :  8:27 AM Follow poster on Twitter  Join poster on Facebook as Friend  
Absolutely stunning attention to detail. I particularly like the use of good connectors and shrink wrap insulation at those connectors. When I see raw twisted wire around a screw I cringe!

Now, tell us the truth ... when I have been away from my Wing for awhile and return to riding I need a few minutes in the saddle to re- familiarize myself with all the gauges and controls or the first few minutes of riding is CONFUSING and dangerous. How do you manage????
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MattInFla
Male Senior Member
254 Posts
[Mentor]


Casselberry, FL
USA

Harley-Davidson

Electra Glide Classi

Posted - 12/29/2009 :  8:28 AM
Be honest - how many farkles are on your snow blower?

(I'm envisioning GPS and perhaps a modified fish finder for locating paved edges under the snow....)

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Axiom2000
Male Moderator
1761 Posts
[Mentor]


Georgetown, Delaware
USA

BMW

F 800 GT

Posted - 12/29/2009 :  9:16 AM
quote:
Now, tell us the truth ... when I have been away from my Wing for awhile and return to riding I need a few minutes in the saddle to re- familiarize myself with all the gauges and controls or the first few minutes of riding is CONFUSING and dangerous. How do you manage????


Good question and one expected from an individual with the mindset of safety first. It takes a good deal of mental discipline to not fiddle around with stuff when riding. After one near mishap because my attention was on a gadget, I now either set everything before the ride or pull over and stop to make any changes. In addition I sat on the motorcycle and practiced until I could locate and operate everything without looking at it. The exception was the GPS thus the reason for moving it up.


quote:
Be honest - how many farkles are on your snow blower?


Well no farkles on the snow blower. Although I did make some mods to it that increased it's power and throwing distance. Let's just say you don't want to be within 50 feet of the chute when it working.
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bachman1961
Male Advanced Member
2271 Posts
[Mentor]


colorado springs, co
USA

Honda

CB750 NightHawk

Posted - 12/29/2009 :  9:37 AM

I believe I found something in the photos that "doesn't belong".

I like these games !!

Oh, it's the plastic part of the key fob ... the only item not wired directly to the electrics !


~brian
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Axiom2000
Male Moderator
1761 Posts
[Mentor]


Georgetown, Delaware
USA

BMW

F 800 GT

Posted - 12/29/2009 :  9:52 AM
Actually the little black thingy attached to the key is a very powerful push button flashlight. And yep I will take any and all ribbing about my farkles It is well deserved.
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greywolf
Male Moderator
1484 Posts
[Mentor]


Evanston, IL
USA

Suzuki

DL650AL2

Posted - 12/29/2009 :  10:02 AM
That's the way to go. Let all controls fall to hand, create a fighter style cockpit that provides info to keep the most important stuff in easy location of normal vision and keep all wiring in place with proper fusing. I would have gone with a connector instead of a terminal strip but that can work okay as long as it is in a place where nothing can contact it or it is only a grounding block. Here's a setup on a different bike. Let's see some more for ideas for varying bikes. My fuse block is in the fairing because most of my electrical accessories are also there.



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Axiom2000
Male Moderator
1761 Posts
[Mentor]


Georgetown, Delaware
USA

BMW

F 800 GT

Posted - 12/29/2009 :  11:25 AM
Greywolf;

quote:
That's the way to go. Let all controls fall to hand, create a fighter style cockpit that provides info to keep the most important stuff in easy location of normal vision and keep all wiring in place with proper fusing. I would have gone with a connector instead of a terminal strip but that can work okay as long as it is in a place where nothing can contact it or it is only a grounding block. Here's a setup on a different bike. Let's see some more for ideas for varying bikes. My fuse block is in the fairing because most of my electrical accessories are also there.


I love it, nice job, a man after my own heart. Particularly like the heat troller connections. I considered a connector but thought it overkill for my purposes, the strip is located way up under the faring out of the elements with no possible way of anything coming in contact. I have seen some pluggable terminal strips and may try one in the future for even greater disconnect ease.

What is not shown is all the work and effort it took to mount and connect a GRMS radio via an Autocom in the top box and a remote antenna to the side of the top box. The problem was I wanted the ability to remove the top box without having to disconnect everything and I did not want wires and cables running everywhere to be bothered with. After much consultation with radio experts and a lot of thinking, reading and searching on the net I came up with and fashioned some one off custom made panel mount jacks that does it all. It really works well and I have been asked by others to produce them for sale. More pics.





Next project: Currently studying to get a HAM license and want to add a HAM radio to the ride, this is going to be fun.
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rkfire
Advanced Member
1716 Posts


Stratford, CT
USA

Suzuki

Bandit

Peer Review: Blocked

Posted - 12/30/2009 :  1:38 PM   Join poster on Facebook as Friend  
I'm curious. I have a car tomtom and use it off it's built in batter, but when I was looking how I might hard wire it, all the connection wires I find are that coaxial type.

Can anyone tell me where I can buy a regular 2 strand wire? Radio Shack maybe?

I thought I might just splice in a "battery tender" type connector, and plug it in there when I want to use the gps.
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Axiom2000
Male Moderator
1761 Posts
[Mentor]


Georgetown, Delaware
USA

BMW

F 800 GT

Posted - 12/30/2009 :  6:09 PM
Roger,
I use an automobile Tom Tom on occasion on the bike, and just use the cigarette lighter plug in to power it. Yours does not come with that option?
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Niebor
Ex-Member

Posted - 12/30/2009 :  6:11 PM
quote:
Originally posted by rkfire

I'm curious. I have a car tomtom and use it off it's built in batter, but when I was looking how I might hard wire it, all the connection wires I find are that coaxial type.

Can anyone tell me where I can buy a regular 2 strand wire? Radio Shack maybe?

I thought I might just splice in a "battery tender" type connector, and plug it in there when I want to use the gps.


The simple answer is you can buy suitable primary wire at any auto parts store, WalMart, etc.

Sorry to say, there is however a bit more to it than that. You have choices to make in terms of where power is derived, fuse location, what wire gauge to run, etc. The battery, fuse block and starter bolt are positive connection point examples. In any event, the first stop in that run is a fuse. An extra fuse position may be available in the fuse block. In-line fuse holders are also available in a variety of waterproof models. I recommend the ones you add be of the same type fuse the rest of the bike uses, simply because spares are interchangeable. A solid ground is also critical to your success. For example, the handlebars are a not proper ground. You need to either tap an existing ground or run your own.

Back to your original question. The gauge and type of wire for this application is likely more driven by actual wire durability than the actual damand of the device. In other words, for simple strength reasons a 16 ga primary wire is about the smallest I'd consider. Understand, your device could well perform flawlessly with an 18 or 20 gauge primary. Also note your fuse selection would represent the smallest gauge wire in the path.

Example: Inline fuse holder, 12 ga, 30 amps max, 16 ga primary wire to an unfused female DC connector, unfused male connector feeding a length of 18 ga wire, connected to the device. I would fuse this circuit at no greater than 5 amps. Less if I could properly determine the devices' peak demands were under a lessor value.

Another example: The factory cable is of sufficient length to reach the battery or fuse block and designed for connection at that point.

The device should ship with the appropriate fuse holder, fuse value and splices. You might be able to find a clean route for wire that small. Be carefull mixing small wire with large bundles of larger wire. Make certain it is slightly slack from one steering extreme to another. You may even consider a length of small plastic tubing, as a protective conduit in places.

Then the subject of proper connections, in general, on a motorcycle. You can research the subject here, and a myriad of places. I see example here of procedures I agree with, others, not so much. When it gets down to it, it works for that rider, I'm thrilled.

I do approve of soldered-heat shrink connections. Be sure to use heat shrink that contains hot-melt glue. Otherwise that connection "breathes" as things heat and cool, and will almost certainly draw in any water present. The connection may make take years to fail, but eventually it will.

Sorry to so complicate the issue. But you really should consider your entire project, have all your materials on hand and tooling for the various pieces parts involved, including two of the more popular sizes, 10mm comes to mind, I use several types routinely.

All in fun, Why not, I'll jump off the cliff. IMHO, If you use screw terminals of any sort, I recommend a drop of "Locktite Blue" at the base of the threads. If there is any possibility that terminal block can get wet, it needs to be "conformally coated". Thats a complicated way to say do your best to make sure your connections are "final", I know... right! You can indeed clean and reuse individual lugs), go to Home Depot and pick up a can of "Liquid Electrical Tape", the 3M product or equal. Apply sufficient coating to assure all exposed metal is covered. There are alternatives, combinations of good electrical tape and rubber tape, for example. The problem is once water gets into the large splice, all that tape keeps it there. Conformal coating allows the terminal block to drain and dry, regardless of how the water got there. Hint: The outer PVC jackets of cables are notorious sources of water. To keep things interesting, downhill doesn't necessarily matter as it relates to water sources. You can get some pretty amazing siphon action going at 70 mph.

As to wire lugs, there are perfectly suitable "crimp type" lugs for most motorcycle applications. However, they generally require specialized crimpers and procedures not readilly available to the rider. Soldering and properly sealing with heat-shrink tubing can certainly produce outstanding results. In fairness, I should also suggest this procedure in itself, is something of an art.


Edited by - Niebor on 12/30/2009 6:34 PM
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rkfire
Advanced Member
1716 Posts


Stratford, CT
USA

Suzuki

Bandit

Peer Review: Blocked

Posted - 12/30/2009 :  6:35 PM   Join poster on Facebook as Friend  
My bike doesn't have a cigarette lighter.

I have a battery tender type connector that I'd like to use. I'd just snip off the male end lighter plug, but the cord it comes with is a single round wire with what I assume is a coaxial type conductor.

I thought of having a pigtail with one end a battery tender connector, a short wire, and then a cigarette lighter socket. That would work but be kind of junky.

Worse case scenario is I turn the tomtom on when necessary and use it's battery, that's what I'm doing now. I don't make all that long a trip usually.
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Niebor
Ex-Member

Posted - 12/30/2009 :  8:21 PM
quote:
Originally posted by rkfire

My bike doesn't have a cigarette lighter.

I have a battery tender type connector that I'd like to use. I'd just snip off the male end lighter plug, but the cord it comes with is a single round wire with what I assume is a coaxial type conductor.

I thought of having a pigtail with one end a battery tender connector, a short wire, and then a cigarette lighter socket. That would work but be kind of junky.

Worse case scenario is I turn the tomtom on when necessary and use it's battery, that's what I'm doing now. I don't make all that long a trip usually.


Okay. The battery lugs supplied with the Battery Tender are the proper size for most motorcycle batteries. There is considerable dispute over where that new lug is positioned in the stack. My opinion is lessor currents to the outside, YMMV.

Anyhow, first disconnect the negative battery cable and isolate it in a way it can not contact the negative battery post. Then the positive battery post. Route the wire to a point you can stash, yet easily access. Make sure that path is protected from anything hot, sharp or pinching. Avoid parrallell paths with high surge current and high voltages, maintain at least a little slack throughout the run. First assemble and properly tension the positive stack. Make sure no connector winds up "cornered" against the housing as you tension the bolts. If your not wearing glasses, line up a negitive wire, close your eyes, touch the wire to the battery post, (open your eyes now ), slide the bolt through, add the tender wire washer and bolt. May sound a bit extreme but you should see what happens when for example, some clown left a wrench on the positive starter bolt. Anyhow, Makes for a grand spark show on a good day. On a bad day you replace the batery, or worse, lose an eye. If that cable were to weld to the post, which happens, trust me, it becomes immediately a serious threat as that battery will likely explode.

The point is please take unfused work around a battery seriously. A serious battery disaster can be every bit as debilitating as a serious crash.

Now, regarding the GPS power cable and cutting off the end of said "coaxial" cable. The term "coaxial" simply means the positive conductor is centered around some sort of conductive shielding material. In this case, I suspect you will find fine strands of wire surrounding foil, foam, then a small center conductor. Your task is to properly remove the outer jacket, separate the outer strands of wire, combine them into a single conductor, feed this fabricated wire into a length of heat-shrink and some how achieve decent strain relief and good water resistance. Again, possible, something of an art. It should likely be fused at like 2 amps. Good luck! Let us know how it turns out.

Now, if that ground/shield "wire" is "silicone dielectric wire", (think Sony headphone wire), your in trouble, trust me.
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Axiom2000
Male Moderator
1761 Posts
[Mentor]


Georgetown, Delaware
USA

BMW

F 800 GT

Posted - 12/30/2009 :  8:43 PM
Roger,
Look here. I have used these folks often, top flight stuff good service.

http://www.powerletproducts.com/
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rkfire
Advanced Member
1716 Posts


Stratford, CT
USA

Suzuki

Bandit

Peer Review: Blocked

Posted - 12/30/2009 :  9:02 PM   Join poster on Facebook as Friend  
Yikes, I think the one cable I could use with a USB on one end and a split wire on the other which I could splice a trailer hitch type plug to was $45.

Thanks guys, I forgot, I can also use my laptop in a tankbag for power as well for a longer trip.
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Niebor
Ex-Member

Posted - 12/30/2009 :  9:53 PM
For less money, you have the option of going standard cigarette lighter directly to USB with this toy:
http://www.rocketfishproducts.com/p...adapter.aspx

Make sure to keep the power port and USB adaptor dry.
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RickRussellTX
Male Standard Member
165 Posts


Hawthorne, CA
USA

Honda

CN250

Posted - 12/30/2009 :  11:07 PM Follow poster on Twitter
You're overthinking this. 12V cigarette lighter -> USB 5V adapters are incredibly cheap. Here's one for $6:

http://www.cellphoneshop.net/usbcarchad.html

Just open it up and wire 12V leads to the terminals, then zip-tie it somewhere handy. Voila, instant USB port.

I keep one in my Helix trunk, just in case I'm out in the boonies somewhere and my iPhone goes down.

RR
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rayg50
Male Moderator
2083 Posts
[Mentor]


NYC, NY
USA

Honda

Shadow Spirit 750DC

Posted - 12/31/2009 :  6:22 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Niebor

For less money, you have the option of going standard cigarette lighter directly to USB with this toy:
http://www.rocketfishproducts.com/p...adapter.aspx

Make sure to keep the power port and USB adaptor dry.


I love gadgets. I am going to order one and team it up with this converter. I keep one in the car and one in the garage. It keeps me from having to carry multiple chargers for one device on trips. If I stop off to grab a bite to eat while on a ride I plug my cell or GPS into a wall outlet, to date no one has said no.

The one in the garage I have teamed up with a 30 dollar car tire inflator and air tire gauge. No more trips to the gas station to put air in my tires.

Sorry for the topic drift but for those of us that can't dream of creating a pilot console on our bikes without causing a North American blackout it is an alternative.

Edited for clarity.

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alton
Male Standard Member
232 Posts


Sarasota, FL
USA

Kawasaki

2018 Versys 650

Posted - 12/31/2009 :  6:36 AM
Take a look at this - http://www.amazon.com/SAE-Cigarette...p/B00206GGB4. If I understand, you already have a battery tender connection to your battery - that's an SAE connector. Your GPS has a cigarette lighter plug for use in your car. If all that is true then this fifteen dollar adapter should do the trick.
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