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 AP-2 fuse block connections
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rayg50
Male Moderator
2083 Posts
[Mentor]


NYC, NY
USA

Honda

Shadow Spirit 750DC

Posted - 12/10/2010 :  10:57 PM                       Like
Took a little legwork but I found the link to a Snow days project thread posted last year. It stayed with me because I was impressed by the attention to detail. If you look at the photos in that thread it may help in understanding my question(s) and IMO you'll enjoy that thread and maybe learn some cool stuff.

Shown in the original post is a Centech AP-2 fuse block. When I read the post I did not know what that was but I took it to be the electrical equivalent of a signal splitter. Recently I decided I need an electrical splitter for my bike. I want to add some stuff to my bike and don't want 20 million wires going to the battery.

I found the post and went on an Internet search of this electrical splitter. The product description says that one of the features it has is that you have some connections that turn off when you turn the bike off and some that don't. Here is a thread discussing this feature. Seems to me that the wiring must not be as straight forward as running two wires from the battery to the AP-2. For those that may be familiar with this specific fuse block or similar ones here are my initial questions.

How are the "inputs" wired (what is their source)?

Are the outputs paired (one negative, one positive)?

Can the smaller fuses be replace with higher ones (10 amp instead of 5 etc) or is it a case of what you see is what you get?

I don't want to bite off more than I can chew but it seems to me that the AP-2 would really save me some work down the road if I can find a good spot for it. Any information would be appreciated. I have not been able to find the installation manual for it online so if anyone has that link it would be useful in my deciding how complex this might really be.

Thanks,
Ray

greywolf
Male Moderator
1484 Posts
[Mentor]


Evanston, IL
USA

Suzuki

DL650AL2

Posted - 12/11/2010 :  12:16 AM
A fuse block with grounds plus switched and unswitched outputs has three inputs, battery ground, switched hot from a relay and unswitched hot from the battery hot. The switched section is wired as in this diagram. The red and black wires that connect to the battery and relay need to be 10 or 12ga and the inline fuse 30-40A. The blue trigger wire only has the relay coil for a load so can be light. 20-22ga is plenty. Other wires to accessories are sized and fused depending on load. See http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
Typically, air horns like 14ga with 15-20A fuses, heated clothing or auxiliary lighting takes 16ga with 10-15A fuses and GPS units take 18-20ga and 2-5A fuses. Fuses are needed to protect the wires so the fuse blows before the wire overheats. Adding electrical loads can tax the bike's charging system so an on board volt meter is a good accessory to have.



If the block does not have ground connections, a separate grounding block is added. The fuse capacities are selected as needed. It's hard to beat Eastern Beaver as a source of motorcycle electrical products. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/P...seboxes.html is a page on fuse blocks.

Edited by - greywolf on 12/11/2010 12:29 AM
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rayg50
Male Moderator
2083 Posts
[Mentor]


NYC, NY
USA

Honda

Shadow Spirit 750DC

Posted - 12/11/2010 :  7:37 AM
Very nice. Let me repeat back some stuff for correction as needed. Please treat my declarations as disguised questions intended to hide my ignorance.
quote:
Originally posted by greywolf

A fuse block with grounds plus switched and unswitched outputs has three inputs, battery ground, switched hot from a relay and unswitched hot from the battery hot. The switched section is wired as in this diagram.


The blue wire would be a splice into any hot wire already turned off by the ignition switch.
quote:

Fuses are needed to protect the wires so the fuse blows before the wire overheats.


Since you are bypassing the bike's fuse box for these connections you need to add your own fuse box equivalent.
quote:

Adding electrical loads can tax the bike's charging system so an on board volt meter is a good accessory to have.


Now you're just being downright mean.

quote:

If the block does not have ground connections, a separate grounding block is added.


So the answer to my question as to whether the outputs are paired would be "it depends" on the fuse block I buy. If it has ground connections then the outputs would be paired. If it does not then I would need a separate piece of hardware for the ground connections.

Quick mind drift: I believe that it was you, in a third thread, that cautioned against grounding to the frame because of the anodizing effect it could have on connections elsewhere. This grounding block is the workaround.

Old plan:
2 wires from electric snowblower.
2 paper clips for connecting the wires to the battery.
Splice any new hot wires to the one hot wire from the battery.
Splice any new ground wires to the one ground from the battery.
Hook it up and stuff it in the battery compartment.

New plan:
AP-2 or equivalent
grounding block if needed
on board volt meter
box of wires of varying gauges and lengths
box of different amp fuses
box of electrical connectors
box of inline fuse holders
relay
wiring diagram from the manufactures service manual
Locate places for the above hardware and map out the wire runs.
Box of tie tags.
"tamper proof" mounting bracket for the volt meter
Liter half gallon of rum

Am I missing anything?

Fair warning for those who may read this and are as electrically challenged as I am, the "old plan" above is an attempt at humor. The new plan's reference to boxes of an item is also humor. If you use the old plan anyway then please yell "hold my beer and watch this" before you turn the ignition key.
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greywolf
Male Moderator
1484 Posts
[Mentor]


Evanston, IL
USA

Suzuki

DL650AL2

Posted - 12/11/2010 :  9:20 AM
You seem to have a handle on the situation. Post back if you encounter any problems.
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rayg50
Male Moderator
2083 Posts
[Mentor]


NYC, NY
USA

Honda

Shadow Spirit 750DC

Posted - 12/11/2010 :  8:51 PM
quote:
Originally posted by greywolf
Post back if you encounter any problems.


Count on it, and thanks.

Your fuse panel seems to be one from Eastern Beaver. Based on the photos on their website, it has both pos and neg output connections. Are the wires connected the way that some speaker wires are? Do you just feed an unshielded end of the wire into the opening and then tighten a screw to clamp it down (no connector needed)?

My intention is to do this in January and February which seem to be the coldest months in NY. The holidays will have passed which should free up some time for me. If a day is too cold to ride it will give me something to do. I'll start to pick up the stuff now so when the time comes I won't have to run out every five minutes to get something. I need the extra time anyway to look into volt meters. I also want to look at tachometers.

Thanks again.
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greywolf
Male Moderator
1484 Posts
[Mentor]


Evanston, IL
USA

Suzuki

DL650AL2

Posted - 12/11/2010 :  11:05 PM
You can see close ups at http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/W...llation.html

The wire feeds into a tube and the tube has a set screw that pushes against a sheet metal finger. The stripped wire end gets trapped between the finger and the tube wall.

Edited by - greywolf on 05/12/2013 8:15 PM
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greywolf
Male Moderator
1484 Posts
[Mentor]


Evanston, IL
USA

Suzuki

DL650AL2

Posted - 05/12/2013 :  8:17 PM
I noticed my last link was dead so I updated it.
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